The front and back panels are MDF. I used an off white krylon. The curved portion is formica. The baffle I used whitewash, watered down chalk paint that I sanded through then clear coated. But I think a solvent based white wash stain might be a better way, more forgiving, sanding scratches and such.
I realize that when I put a catalyzed clearcoat over a non catalyzed base coat, Krylon, I invite crazing. It seems to take two or three years, but right now I am just experimenting, besides wrinkles come with age.
I like them just the way they are now. But I guess maybe a contrasting wood would work. I'm about as bad at colors as I am at naming my speaker projects so don't put much stock in my opinion
@Eggguy said:
I am inclined to agree. It's too monochromatic. That's a fancy word for kinda sucks
That does not suck at all! My first thoughts were that it looks like marble. Solid, elegant, refined and very unique for a speaker. You should roll with it.
The wood grain and wood tone around the drivers is a bit distracting. Work on that if anything.
I made a decision to not enter these speakers into SDC 2024 due to my conscience. My hobby should not interfere with providing for my family. So I will enter my Pentapaths, perhaps with an upgraded crossover. I need some advice however in purchasing some high quality non-Chinese components components for the chubby eggs. Clarity caps? Jantzen? Solen? Foil inductors? Litz wire? P core? Low DCR iron core? Opinions please? Those supreme tweeters need some proper support.
You’ll no doubt get several suggestions- I’ve been happy with Clarity Caps CSAs, and consider those my go-too’s.
I tried the Clarity Cap PURs but don’t know if I heard any difference from the CSAs for the $$$. Also Jantzen Zs; Silvers if small values biz $$$ and the red Superiors are solid (bigger sized than many caps).
Thanks speaker dudes. What about coils? I really would like to keep this project China free. PE has some Jantzen litz wire coils that are potted with wax. My ears are really not that good but maybe if I spoil them a bit and they would get better. Or I could just build the stuff and then I will need one of you smart guys to come to my place and teach me to do crossovers more better. I have a futon in the shop.
@Tom_S said:
For inductors, US Coils looks good. Who knows where PE has their Dayton line manufactured?
Remember, ERSE is now mainly China based. I don't know if their stock at US Coils comes from ERSE or if it is made here in the states. I would bet the bobbins comes from ERSE.
I'm pretty certain Dayton coils are China made.
Eggman, with your skills you could always make a winder and make your own...
I do not have a lot of experience with tweeters, but as for the moving coil type, this this Morel tweeter is different. Different as in better. Even me, with my untrained ears, I cannot hear nor measure distortion with a first order electrical filter. It has 1.5 mm underhung Xmax PP.I am concerned that I may overload them with heat. I can flatten their impedance within .1 Ohms but I am not certain how to calculate music power to the tweeter.
This is the crossover that I am now listening to. It has very little reverse null, just a slight shift in lobe tilt. I need to find another way to suppress the woofers breakups while still maintaining first order electrical behavior. The first crossover I tried was second a order electrical design that I copied from the Madisound More Trix kit. I changed the values for my 4 Ohm woofer and tweeked it using Omnimic. It came together very easily and showed a very deep reverse null around 1600 Hz. That is less than 3/4 wavelength driver separation. The vertical response was very good. But it did not sound great. It sounded a bit irritating, a harshness, too forward. I am no longer convinced of the importance of reverse nulls.
Keep in mind that reverse null doesn't apply to odd order BW filters or some combinations of odd and even, so if the acoustic filter is at all bastardized, the null may not be what you're looking for. I generally like to see the phases running parallel.
Comments
Thanks Steve. I am not just some ordinary dumbass cabinetmaker, I am an exceptionally dumbass cabinetmaker.
You've got eggsellent skills.
Now, what did you do to make it white? I look to do just that down the road....
InDIYana Event Website
The front and back panels are MDF. I used an off white krylon. The curved portion is formica. The baffle I used whitewash, watered down chalk paint that I sanded through then clear coated. But I think a solvent based white wash stain might be a better way, more forgiving, sanding scratches and such.
I realize that when I put a catalyzed clearcoat over a non catalyzed base coat, Krylon, I invite crazing. It seems to take two or three years, but right now I am just experimenting, besides wrinkles come with age.
I like them just the way they are now. But I guess maybe a contrasting wood would work. I'm about as bad at colors as I am at naming my speaker projects so don't put much stock in my opinion
That does not suck at all! My first thoughts were that it looks like marble. Solid, elegant, refined and very unique for a speaker. You should roll with it.
The wood grain and wood tone around the drivers is a bit distracting. Work on that if anything.
Pretty sweet chops Eggs. Looks great as it is and would as done with the suggested options.
Does not suck.
I made a decision to not enter these speakers into SDC 2024 due to my conscience. My hobby should not interfere with providing for my family. So I will enter my Pentapaths, perhaps with an upgraded crossover. I need some advice however in purchasing some high quality non-Chinese components components for the chubby eggs. Clarity caps? Jantzen? Solen? Foil inductors? Litz wire? P core? Low DCR iron core? Opinions please? Those supreme tweeters need some proper support.
You’ll no doubt get several suggestions- I’ve been happy with Clarity Caps CSAs, and consider those my go-too’s.
I tried the Clarity Cap PURs but don’t know if I heard any difference from the CSAs for the $$$. Also Jantzen Zs; Silvers if small values biz $$$ and the red Superiors are solid (bigger sized than many caps).
I am having difficulty in determining the country of origin of most components.
CSA’s states made in Wales, PURs show Britain, air coil sold through JF Components !!!
I believe Jantzen is Danish and the caps are made in the EU
Audyn caps are German and the description says "Precision made in Germany" although I don't see it labeled on the capacitors themselves.
I've never been overly concerned about country of origin per se. I've bought great things and shit stuff from pretty much every country.
I should state I’m a bit biased / fan of most things British sound. (Can’t say the same for British car parts reputation - ie Lucas, but the TR6 +++)
Thanks speaker dudes. What about coils? I really would like to keep this project China free. PE has some Jantzen litz wire coils that are potted with wax. My ears are really not that good but maybe if I spoil them a bit and they would get better. Or I could just build the stuff and then I will need one of you smart guys to come to my place and teach me to do crossovers more better. I have a futon in the shop.
For inductors, US Coils looks good. Who knows where PE has their Dayton line manufactured?
Remember, ERSE is now mainly China based. I don't know if their stock at US Coils comes from ERSE or if it is made here in the states. I would bet the bobbins comes from ERSE.
I'm pretty certain Dayton coils are China made.
Eggman, with your skills you could always make a winder and make your own...
InDIYana Event Website
Lol
https://www.jfcomponents.com/
Brad must know something we don't. Didn't you buy Mark's coil winder?
Brad knows a lot of things. The trick is to get it out of him.
I do not have a lot of experience with tweeters, but as for the moving coil type, this this Morel tweeter is different. Different as in better. Even me, with my untrained ears, I cannot hear nor measure distortion with a first order electrical filter. It has 1.5 mm underhung Xmax PP.I am concerned that I may overload them with heat. I can flatten their impedance within .1 Ohms but I am not certain how to calculate music power to the tweeter.
Tweeter power?
Disregard, I don't think its anything for me to be concerned about much. What could possibly go wrong?
This is the crossover that I am now listening to. It has very little reverse null, just a slight shift in lobe tilt. I need to find another way to suppress the woofers breakups while still maintaining first order electrical behavior. The first crossover I tried was second a order electrical design that I copied from the Madisound More Trix kit. I changed the values for my 4 Ohm woofer and tweeked it using Omnimic. It came together very easily and showed a very deep reverse null around 1600 Hz. That is less than 3/4 wavelength driver separation. The vertical response was very good. But it did not sound great. It sounded a bit irritating, a harshness, too forward. I am no longer convinced of the importance of reverse nulls.
I have never used a beastmode tweeter. This Supreme tweeter is definitely beastmode.
Keep in mind that reverse null doesn't apply to odd order BW filters or some combinations of odd and even, so if the acoustic filter is at all bastardized, the null may not be what you're looking for. I generally like to see the phases running parallel.
Like this Nick?
That is FR and total acoustic phase. Nick is referring to the individual acoustic phases of tweeter and woofer.
InDIYana Event Website